Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and travelers equally praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and lively culinary scene," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this historic city is no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has always characterized its heart: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – little-known gems that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though say that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will motivate more people worldwide to discover these stories and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
