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When assembling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might expect well-known high-end establishments. However, nestled near the top among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This honour has left the proprietors completely astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” says a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small restaurant securing such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. When the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic honour.